Pros

Brush selection toolbar - Much simpler to use than Photoshop's scroll menu. Also the edit brush option is very easy to use. There are also some cool default brushes like the clover.

Layer option - There are a lot of layer options in the toolbar including an easy way to create a layer mask

Extra tools - Tools like the rotate tool, shear tool etc make it easier to manipulate whole layers.

Cons

Brush Options: Although the option to create your own brushes is there a lot of the defaults I use in Photoshop are missing. Most of the basics are there at least.

Text Input - A major pain in the butt, when trying to move your text, resize the box etc. The default text box is very finicky and if you select the wrong spot you often go back to the actual text edit. Did I mention that the text edit is in another mini-window that pops up? It can be very frustrating when you are simply trying to resize the box.

Lack of tabbed images - I find it more efficient when cutting out parts of an image and moving them to use tabbed images like in Photoshop. GIMP unfortunately doesn't offer that.

Overall I found GIMP 2.6 to be a fairly decent program for minor image creation. I haven't delved to much into photo editing yet so we shall see the final results.

I was stumbling over random pages online when I found a page that looked like a photo editor, but I was sure it was just going to be a picture, or not work. It was just too decked out. When I clicked on the “file” button, sure enough, I got a menu! Immediately, I opened a picture from my computer and began playing with it. This program was amazing; it did everything! When I went to the site it came from, I found a rather interesting name; Sumo Paint.

Ever since then, I've used this program for every picture that I drew and uploaded. I'm one of those digital artists who does their lineart and coloring online. SumoPaint is so effective, and works for my purposes. I felt the need to compare it to everyone's beloved PhotoShop.

PhotoShop: Pros

• Has a multitude of features
• Makes smooth pictures
• There are many patches and add-ons you can download and use
• Professionally made
• You can make your own brushes for use
• Keyboard shortcuts
• Tons of filters
• Keeps track of editing history
• Has a layer toolbar

PhotoShop: Cons

• Most versions costs from $200 for the old version, and $600 for the new version
• There are so many versions to choose from
• Can be hard to learn; overwhelming amount of features
• Large file

SumoPaint: Pros

• Has a similar toolbar as PhotoShop
• With a bit of learning, you can make quality pictures
• There are a handful of filters
• It comes with a number of pre-made brushes
• It's completely free
• It's online
• No scams involved
• Saves to your computer if you don't want to sign up
• Has a layer toolbar
• Doesn't take up space on your hard drive

SumoPaint: Cons

• It takes up a lot of bandwidth, therefor might crash your internet if left in use for long periods of time
• Will lag sometimes
• It doesn't always save to your account
• If you just have a layer invisible, it will still show up when you save the picture

As it's plainly obvious, they've both got their ups and downs. It might be hard for many who have the money to choose, and I fully agree that Sumo is no PhotoShop. My internet, multiple times, has crashed and left me with no scrap of my work left. Still, when using PhotoShop, it's still a possibility.

Whether you choose Sumo or PhotoShop is up to you. The choice is up to opinion, and what is right for each person. If you're looking for more advanced options with hundreds of tutorials out there, splurging on PhotoShop might be your choice. If you're more of a simpleton like me, and just need something for basic art, SumoPaint might be better for you. Maybe you just don't have the money yet, or you don't have the space on your computer? SumoPaint might be better for you.

Either way, happy picture-editing.

Have you ever wanted to create stunning HDR pictures like that one but don't have access to the proper equipment or software?

You may be interested to know that there is an easy way to create the same effect by only using a single image and Adobe Photoshop CS. There is an adjustment effect called 'Shadow/Highlight', which can create amazing effects just by simply moving some sliders.

In the next few minutes I'm going to show you how to take an image like the above and turn it into this...

Firstly lets take a look at the 'Shadow/Highlight' box.

HDR effects with Photoshop CS 2 & 3

When you start this adjustment you will notice that the image instantly looks better and with a bit of tweaking we can make it look like an HDR photograph. Before you start it's best if you auto-adjust the levels of your picture, this gives you a better foundation for your image and you'll get better results.

The box is divided into three sections: Shadows; Highlights and Adjustments. Moving the 'Amount' sliders will make the shadows and highlights lighter or darker depending on how far you slide them e.g. when you first begin the 'Shadow' slider is already set to 50 which brings out details in the shadows by making them lighter. If you were to move the 'Highlight' slider it would make the lightest areas slightly darker and bring out areas on detail in overexposed parts. Playing with the 'Radius' and 'Tonal Width' gives you different effects, it is very much a personal preference as to how you set these sliders. Lastly in 'Adjustments' you can alter how much saturation you want in the picture's colour range and also bring out more details in the mid range of tone by increasing their contrast. Below are my setting for creating the HDR version, yours may differ from mine.

HDR effects with Photoshop CS 2 & 3

The settings for different images will vary quite extensively so it's best to play around with sliders and see what you can come up with. Good luck!

Bill Harbison.

Post cards may be made from almost anything depending on what you have at hand. There was a woman who used to glue empty cigarette packets to a piece of white cardboard and attach a stamp to the back. Other travelers simply use a photo print as their postcard, there are many methods, but if you wish to print your own:

 Open a word processing program eg Word 2003, and insert the desired photo/picture at the top of the page thus: 

Click on the inserted image and drag it to the desired size. (above).

Scroll down to the next page and using similar dimensions design the reverse side of the postcard, and describe the image thus:

Select File/Print/Current page and print the picture then replace that paper in the printer and scroll down and print the reverse side on the back of the image.

Cut the image with the reverse side printed behind it and you have your postcard. Ensure you have the rulers on the edge of your Word program to judge the sizes. Ensure you place the second side of the paper in the printer correctly. Use care on the printed image so as not to smudge it.

We will be using this image to create a variety of black and white photos, to bring out the best of a colour photo in black and white. The simplest way is not always the best.

Desaturation

This uses the simplest tool in PS, to make a black and white image.

Image > Adjustments > Desaturation

From here the contrast and brightness can be changed in a variety of ways. I personally use curves, but all four methods will be shown below. All can be found in image > adjustments. One must note there are other ways but these are the most common and effective.

You can make not only the images a higher contrast as above, but a lower contrast to give a more dreamy effect.

Colour balance

Image > adjustments > colour balance

This allows you to desaturate an image and give it a tint as I've done below. You drag all the options to the far left, and the image will go greyscale, after this you can use shadows/highlights to add a tint.

Hue saturation

This allows the same flexibility as colour balance, but is simpler to use. You drag the saturation counter to the far left. To colourise the image, click the colourise option on the far bottom right.

Gradient map

This allows you to do all sorts of things intop of turning your photo into a black and white. To use this option you use the present gradients, and select the option with the black and white swatch, in the adjustments menu.

You can also go to mode > greyscale, but if you wish to add colour you must then change the mode back.

There is now a link to using channels in Photoshop, for anyone who wishes to check out another method.

First, open System Preferences and select Desktop & Screen Saver. Once you choose the Screen Saver tab, click on the Library option (or any photo album of your choice).

Notice the three buttons above the Display Style. These options are for Slideshow, Collage, and Mosaic.

Slideshow is the standard photo slideshow you would expect with a photo screen saver. The photos are displayed randomly with a fading transition in between.

Collage is a more visually appealing way to view your photo library. Randomly selected photos drop onto your screen like photos thrown onto a desk. Multiple photos can be seen as they pile up on the desktop.

The Mosaic option is my personal favorite. It starts with one photo being displayed on the screen. As the view pans out, other photos can be seen. As more and more photos fill the screen, they start to form an image of their own. Eventually, a photo from your library can be seen as it is composed using your entire photo library. When the image can be seen, the display pauses, only to continue by creating another photo.

These cool photo screen savers will allow you to enjoy your photo library while on a break in a way that is different from the ordinary. But be careful… with the Mosaic mode enabled you will find yourself staring at your screen as your photos are assembled before your eyes.

USB Engine Hub

(Photo credit: Witty)

Tired of looking at the conventional USB hubs? Why don't you have a motorbike engine or USB engine hub on your desk? This device comes with 3 ports to enable you to connect to any laptop or PC via a USB port. When you plug it into the USB port, the engine revs up to tell you that it is connected. The main feature of this device is that it has a starter pedal and gearshift which make realistic engine noises when pressed. Perhaps, the video here will demonstrate it better for its engine sounds and powerful vibrations.

Donut Flash Drives

(Photo credit: Technabob)

Are you hungry? Would you want to have some donuts? You can choose from three flavors: traditional chocolate frosting, strawberry and a weird green color. These delicious looking donuts are not served for you to bite on as it stores bytes and bits instead of calories.

Gundam USB-Powered Air Ionizer

(Photo credit: Yanko)

Are you a fan of the Gundam anime series? If yes, you will fall in love with this device. This USB-Powered ionizer is useful to keep the air around you ionize as long as your computer or notebook that it is plugged to is turned on.

USB Lighter Flash Drive

(Photo credit: TechIT)

This USB Lighter Flash Drive might not be caused you concern as it does not use a flammable liquid. Rather, it builds on the same concept as the lighter in most cars. It uses small resistance coils powered by a rechargeable battery, in which you can plug it into an available USB port for recharging purpose.

The Smallest USB hub

(Photo credit: WonderIT)

This USB hub is claimed to be the smallest USB 2.0 hub in the world, which is designed to help you connect more peripherals to the PC without occupying too much desktop space. It measures 5.8mm x 28mm x12mm to make it travel-friendly. Though it is small, it manages to cram in four USB 2.0 ports. From the above picture, you can see that it's shorter than the length of two SD cards, weighing about 21 grams.

USB Fibre Optic Christmas Tree

(Photo credit: Compwee)

This USB Fibre Optic Christmas Tree will definitely get you into the Christmas spirit. When you plug this device into an available USB port, you'll experience a warm glow as the tips of the branches glisten with a bright blue shimmer. The sparkling lights from this Christmas tree will give you soothing as well as hypnotic effects besides adding a festive spirit.

USB Owl

(Photo credit: Parker)

This USB Owl is a cute and friendly-looking little owl which is one of the weirdest USB products. The owl will blink sagely, move and roll his eyes around, and rotate his head which will definitely provide you inspiration to any home and office computer users.

USB “Timeless Watch”

(Photos credit: Nakamura)

This USB “Timeless watch” is a combination of a digital watch and a USB. It was designed by the Czech designer, Ondrej Vaclavik. The watch is lightweight while providing time and information. After connecting to a computer or a notebook, it will remain the status of charging.

USB Animal Drives

(Photos credit: Feber)

These USB drives are Swedish products. They're shaped into animals like a gorilla (Fredrik), a sheep (Jan), a turtle (Göran), and a pig(Maud). Each of this USB drive is available in four memory sizes: 1GB, 2GB, and 4GB.

USB Eternal Love Rings

(Photo credit: KimJong)

Are we matched to each other? How long will our love last? Now, let's synchronize these USB Eternal Love Rings to a laptop or a computer to “connect” our mutual love.

USB Hub Photo Frame

(Photos credit: Joey)

This USB Hub looks like a digital photo frame. It comes with four ports and is USB 2.0 compatible. It matches the photo size of 62x 53mm. It's one of the devices to put on your desk to brighten your memories. Besides that, its back light picture frame will brighten up your paper pictures anytime and anyplace you get it plugging into your laptop or computer.

USB Mini Fan

(Photos credit: Erfan)

This super cute USB Mini Fan is shaped into animals like a little pig and a little ducking. If your indoor air is not thoroughly ventilated, don't forget to let this cute little pig or a little duckling to ventilate your surrounding air.

2008 Beijing Olympics USB Flash Drives

(Photos credit: XinChen)

In conjunction to 2008 Beijing Olympic, the USB flash drives took a theme of the Olympic Games in China. They were released with a very limited edition. The 4GB thumb drive of the Olympic torch features the game logo in its centre, with some swirly red cloud around its surrounding. The Mascot-series which consist of 4GB flash drives have their front side printed with images of Fuwa besides the Olympic logos.

Mini cars USB Flash Drives

(Photos credit: FareWi)

These mini cars USB flash drives are one of the weirdest products of USB. They won't take you go downtown but they help to store data of pictures, MP3 and some movie files as well.

(Photo credit: FareWi)

When you plug this mini car into a USB port, its headlight will be immediately lighted up. It's cool, isn't it?

(Photo credit: FareWi)

They also come in a freight car and a patrol car. It's such the weirdest and coolest products ever made!

DRI stands as the title says for Dynamic Range Increase. Normally a digital camera can't capture the whole contrast spectrum of a scene like our eyes. Depending on how well it's sensor is made it can capture more or less contrast, but it's always less than our eyes can. Even my DSLR for 700€ can't capture the whole contrast like my eyes, but it can at least capture more contrast than my small compact camera.

Making a DRI Photo means to put multiple exposures of the same photo together and only use the well exposed part of each. On this way you can get beyond the contrast of every digital camera. Of course, the more contrast your camera can capture the less work you have.

Photos Suited for DRI

Photos for DRI should be taken with a tripod so they match 100% exactly onto each other. You can also use freehand photos, like I did in this guide because I didn't had no better ones, but then you should use a panorama align tool like Hugin to match them over each other. This is also the reason why my photos are looking a bit uncommon.

Other things you should be aware of is that your photos must not contain any movement because if you lay them over each other the movement doesn't match, except your camera can take all different exposures at once. Even the wind can mess a picture up if you have trees or grass or other wind sensitive objects in your photo. I had luck with my ones, it was a silent day. Moving clouds can also be trouble.

Needed Software

I would suggest you GIMP because I'm used to it but I think every image software that supports layers and partial transparency for these will do. Don't wonder why my GIMP looks a bit different than the normal version, I've used GIMP Photo based on GIMP 2.4.3 but don't worry, I'm not using any thing that isn't included in the normal GIMP 2+ versions.

If you want to use freehand photos I would suggest you also Hugin so you can align them to each other. Normally it's made for aligning panorama parts together but it does a good job for DRI aligning too.

Making the DRI

Now let's get started, for this DRI guide I will only use 2 different exposures. You can use more but I'm not done with learning how to do that the correct way, most of my DRI's with more than 2 parts are not really good and only most of my 2 part DRI's turn out well.

Loading the Photos

First load your photos into GIMP. The easiest way is to open the underexposure and load the other exposure(s) with "File > Open as layers (Ctrl + Alt + O)". Alternatively you can just drag them onto the opened darkest photo, they will get loaded as layers that way too.

Correct Order

The order is important for this guide, you need to order the exposures starting with the lightest on top going down to the darkest at the bottom. To do that you can Shift + Click the eye on the left of a layer to only show this layer. Then find out if its the darkest, the lightest or something between and drag it either on top of all other or below all others or where ever it should be. As you can see on this screen shot: I'm dragging with the left mouse button the layer that got the eye, which shows it's the only visible, below the other layer cause the one I'm dragging is the dark one. The other one is the lighter one. The black line shows where the layer will land when I release the left mouse button.

This screen shot shows the 2 layers,on the left the lower and darker one, on the right the upper lighter one. I cut the half away from the lighter one so I can show you that they match together. You don't need to cut your photos yet.

Getting it DRI

Now that you have correctly ordered your photos we can make the unneeded parts transparent. To do this, right click the lighter layer and click on "Add layer mask".

Then the "Add layer mask" window will appear where you select "Greyscale copy of layer" and check the "Invert mask" checkbox.

This is also the reason why the lightest photo needs to be on top, the inverted greyscale copy will make all parts of the picture transparent depending on their luminance. This means that the lighter parts will be full to nearly full transparent while the darker parts will be nearly to full non-transparent.

This is where the simple DRI guide ends. Of course you can get even more out by optimizing the layer mask and using more than only 2 exposures but these are things I have to learn my self first. But compared to the base photos the result isn't bad. It's a simple but still nice DRI photo.

I hope this guide will help you to make some nice DRI photos too.

The last page shows the final DRI and the split screen from before so you can compare them.

Thanks for reading.

1. GIMP

   It's a lot like Photoshop without the huge price tag. Free! Originally designed for Linux, it has been made for Windows as well. Works great for Vista where older Photoshop versions and other issues of compatibility don't exist!
   

2. Namo WebEditor

   So you want to create a website and may or may not know some html. Not a problem. Namo is structured similarly to Dreamweaver and again without the huge pricetag. This software runs $100 and comes with Namo FreeMotion and Namo FreeCanvas. I'm more impressed with FreeMotion as it's a flash based program and the instructions included make it easy enough for an amateur to use. Namo FreeCanvas isn't bad but I wouldn't pay anything extra for it. Worth checking out as part of the bundle. If you already own another web editor, there is typically a rebate for $20 off.
   

3. Pinnacle Studio

   Do you like editing video clips? If you do this program is reasonably priced and though not as fancy as Adobe's Premiere it's also much cheaper! Versions range from the original studio through Plus and Ultimate based on your needs. If you're editing standard video you can pay as little as $50. High Definition will cost you $100 and Studio Ultimate which allows for Dolby 5.1, fx editor, and a few other features be prepared to dish out $130. Typically Studio allows for an upgrade version and/or rebate based on your previous purchase.
   

4. Paint.net

   Again another photo editing software similar to Photoshop but easier to navigate for those that aren't advanced users. Free software again, can't complain there. The interface is easy and it doesn't lack features